Practicing, Training & Performing

When participating in any athletic venue it is easy to forget the importance of warming up and practicing.  It is to tempting to jump right into the heat of the battle because that is what is “Fun”.  However we must learn how to have fun practicing our craft.  There are three phases of involvement in your sport; training, practice, and performance.  All three are not mutually exclusive and all three should be approached with specific mind sets.  Practicing and training will not always be “fun” in fact at times it may suck.  However if you put in the effort practicing then you will earn your self some fun time when you are performing effortlessly at your highest potential.  In regards to rock climbing I recommend a few ways in which to warm up or “Practice your craft:

-step on only tiny foot chips

-make many foot movements

-goal is not to send routes, goal is to move perfectly

-monitor foot movement (pick foot target and watch foot land)

-blinking drill (look @chip close eyes, place foot, open & examine placement)


Once you familiarize yourself with those concepts then you can move on to the following “Good Habits for Efficient Sill Development”


-Isolate components (lats w/pull ups, fingers w/dead hangs, biceps w/curls etc.)

-look for expert feedback

-Gradually increase the difficulty with practice

-continue to work moves to perfection, not failure


Like I stated before practice and training are not mutually exclusive.  For example practice when climbing is perfecting movement on the wall.  Whereas training for climbing would include the hang board, 4×4’s, campus boards, etc.  With that in mind your climbing sessions should start with


-30 to 60 min of practice and 30 to 60 min of training depending on your skill level

& include

-appropriate projects (should be red pointed in about 4 climbing days)

-strive to perfect hard sequences


Once your training, practice or performance session is done does not mean all the work is done.  We cant forget about Rest, Recovery, and Rehab.


–when inactive, blood pools depriving body parts of essential nutrients, hence the importance of low intensity recovery days. Move to get nutrients to parts of the body

-if lont term climbing success is the goal, appropriate rest is essential

-make sure to incorporate at least 5 days and up to 4 weeks of no climbing upon completion of a long multi week/multi month training plan

-Listen to your body and know when to call it quits when engaging in the performance phase of your plan


The guide lines above should be a starting point to your climbing routine.  They should serve as the blueprint to your climbing success.  However this is just the tip of the iceberg of when it comes to skill development.  Once these concepts are ingrained in your everyday climbing then we can discuss adding on and continuing to build off the fundamentals.





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